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Aspire Odyssey Kit review

The Aspire Odyssey Mini kit (known as the Quest Mini kit in the UK, I'm assuming for trademark reasons) bundles up two of Aspire's latest offerings, the Pegasus Mini 50W TC mod and the Triton Mini tank. The kit is available in 3 colours - silvesteel, black, and gold (the finish on the mod and the metal parts of the tank match). As far as I know neither of these is available for sale individually yet, just as part of the kit (although some vendors may break up kits and sell the parts piecemeal). MSRP on the kit is around $80 US, but if you shop around you can get it for quite a bit less (I paid a little over $50). In addition to the mod and tank the kit includes 3 coil heads (a 1.8 ohm Clapton - installed in the tank - a 1.2 ohm Kanthal, and a .15 ohm nickel), a replacement glass tank for the Triton Mini, a warranty/authenticity card, a USB charge cable (seems sturdy, if an unfortunate shade of Safety Orange), and a quite good user manual that manages to avoid the usual "for most huger vaporizations" Chinglish we're so used to seeing on consumer products coming out of China (the Spanish and French looks pretty good too; my German is rusty, and I only have a little utility Polish, so I can't comment on how well-translated those sections were). It's a nice complete kit - add a decent 18650 battery and a bottle of juice, and you're good to go for a couple of weeks.
Opening up the box, the first thing that struck me was how tiny the Pegasus Mini is - it's about the same size as the original iStick. The second thing that struck me when I took it out of the box was how light it is (under 100g, without a tank or battery). The body has a nice teardrop curve (22 mm where the battery goes in/the atomizer sits, tapering down to 16 mm where the fire and control buttons are), and it fits really nicely in the hand - if I'm firing it with my thumb, my fingers curve around the body comfortably, and it fits nicely into the web of my thumb if I trigger it. The screen is recessed into the body of the device, and both large and clear - I've had no problems reading it in direct sunlight; the screen also auto-rotates, no need to futz with buttons or menus to switch from right- to left-handed use. The buttons have minimal rattle (a little bit from the fire button if you shake it like a maraca), and are nicely clicky and responsive. The battery door is on the bottom of the mod and held in place with a quite strong magnet; a retaining arm (that doubles as the negative contact) slides over top of the battery. The edges of the arm are a bit sharp, so I'd advise caution when replacing the battery (if using an external charger) to avoid nicking the wrap. There is no separate venting for the battery - I'd assume it's intended to vent through the USB charge port (which is on the side of the mod, below the up/down buttons, making it easy to charge standing up on a desk).
That's the looks, but how about the guts? The mod's got the usual safety features you'd expect, can fire loads from .1 to 3 ohm (.2 to 3 ohm in bypass/pseudo-mech mode), and outputs (per the spec sheet, I don't have a 'scope to check the signal) from .5 to 8.5 V, so it should be able to reach its advertised 50W max with loads up to 1.4 ohm (does anybody actually vape at 50W on a supra-ohm coil?). In temperature-control mode (it supports both nickel and titanium wire for TC), its range is 200-600 degrees F or 100-315 degrees C. Where it sets itself apart is the menu - or, more precisely, the lack thereof. When you attach a new atomizer (or power the device up) you're presented with a "New Atomizer? Y/N" prompt. If you press "n" the device comes up with its previous settings, if you hit "y" it first asks what kind of coil you have attached - (Ka)nthal, (Ni)ckel, or (Ti)tanium). If you select kanthal, it asks if you want to run in regulated mode or "bypass" (ie. mech) mode, which just dumps the current battery voltage to your atomizer with no regulation; if you select regulated mode you're now at the main screen and can use the up or down buttons to set your desired wattage in .1 watt increments (it auto-scrolls - with an accelerator - if you hold the button, but doesn't round-robin). If you select Ni or Ti it will ask if you want to run in Fahrenheit or Celsius, then ask if the coil is at room temperature (if you answer "yes", it locks the resistance, if not it uses the old resistance for temperature calculations); you're now at the main screen and can set your desired temperature in 1 degree increments. There are no presets, no memory locations, no external software, no modes, no way to load your own TCR curves, and no need to set wattage (or joules) when you're in TC mode - just set desired wattage or temperature and vape. Whether that's a pro or a con is down to personal taste - some people like to fiddle and micro-manage every single aspect of their vape, others just want to push a button and get their nic fix.
Enough about the mod already, how's the tank hold up? Let me start with my single biggest complaint about the Triton Mini - the name. If a Nautilus Mini uses Nautilus coils, and a Subtank Mini uses Subtank coils and a TFV4 Mini uses TFV4 coils, you'd logically assume the Triton Mini uses...? The answer, of course, is "Nautilus coils" (well, Triton Mini coils, but they're cross-compatible with Nautilus coils - you can use Nautilus coils in the Triton Mini, and vice-versa), not Triton (full-size)/Atlantis coils. I can see this causing no end of confusion, especially for new vapers who buy the kit and then go looking for replacement coils. Granted that the tank looks a lot like the Triton, they might have been better off calling it the "Nautilus Mini v2" (or something else entirely) rather than the Triton Mini. The other potential point of confusion is that while the Triton is a sub-ohm tank, the Mini really isn't 1 - it's effectively a follow-up to the Nautilus/Mini. You can lung-hit it if you open the airflow all the way up, but it's really a mouth-to-lung tank, and dedicated lung-hitters will probably feel about it the same way I do about running something like a Subtank with the AFC almost all the way closed - technically it works, but it really isn't satisfying compared to the real thing.
The other thing that's going to put some people off about the Triton Mini is that it doesn't have an RTA section (and I doubt Aspire will put one on the market; I know there's an aftermarket rebuildable unit for the Nautilus, but I don't know how well - if at all - it works, or if it will work with the TMini) - it's replacement coils or nothing with this one. On the up side, however, the replacement coils are really, really good, and best of all they're compatible with the Nautilus, so you can bring new life to your old Nautilus if you have one lying around (more on the coils in a bit).
Having gotten the up-front kvetching out of the way, onto the meat. The tank itself is glass and stainless steel (gold-plated or black anodized if you bought the black or gold kit), 21 mm at the base (this may bother the other three people out there who use regulated tube mods, but it doesn't look bad on most boxes, and would probably look nice on something like a Wizard Evolved), has fully adjustable air-flow control (it's nice and firm - just stiff enough it doesn't move on its own, but not so firm you can't adjust it easily while it's on your mod), uses a standard 510 driptip (the included DT is a short, wide-bore tip - I found a definite improvement in flavour when I switched it out for a spare Kayfun DT I had on hand, and I wish they'd included a narrower-bore tip in the box), holds around 2 ml of liquid (keep in mind this isn't a sick tit chaser, and you probably won't be running it at 80 gigawatts, so that's not as big a negative as it might be - I find if I fill the tank before leaving for work in the morning it will last me until after dinner), and is fairly short (60 mm counting the stock DT). Like the full-size Triton the Mini is designed for top-fill - turn the topcap (which has a nice tactile "click" when it snaps into position) until the juice ports are closed, unscrew the drip-tip assembly, add liquid down the exposed ports, re-attach drip-tip assembly, open juice flow. The juice ports in the top are wide enough that I've had no problems filling the tank with a glass dropper, even with thicker liquids. The glass portion of the tank sits on silicone (?) cushions in the base and top, and the chimney section threads into the base, so the whole tank comes apart very easily for cleaning, which is always a plus.
So how's it vape? Really, really well. We all have our personal wishlists, the things we'd like to see in new vaping tech, and the top of mine has been "Kayfun-level performance with replaceable coils" for a long time. This tank isn't there...but it's as close as I've seen. (This is one of those places mileage varies - I don't see rebuilding as an end in itself, although I know plenty of people who see it as a hobby. For me rebuilding is a means - I want a tastier vape, and if that means mucking about with wire and jigs and bits of cotton padding, that's what I'll do, but I'd be perfectly happy to never pick up a drill bit and a spool of Kanthal again if I didn't have to.) The Mini isn't going to replace my Kayfuns or my Erlkoenigin in my daily rotation, but it's perfect for days when I'm feeling lazy and don't want to re-build, or going out of town for a few days and don't want to carry my kit with me - just toss a spare coil in my pocket and done.
Aspire's making three types of coils (and they're all compatible with the OG Nautilus/Mini), and the kit comes with one of each, so you can try them all and find the one that best fits your taste. I found the 1.8 ohm Clapton coil (kanthal over kanthal) took a little while to break in (about half a tank, or a ml or so), was happiest in the 13-15 W range marked on the coil, produced denser vapor, stronger throat hit, and maybe a touch more flavour than the 1.2 ohm. The vanilla 1.2 ohm coil didn't have the break-in time, could be run at a wider power range (I took it as low at 10 W and as high as 30), and still produced excellent flavour. The .15 nickel coil has been working fine in TC mode (it's a huge improvement over the aftermarket nickel Nautilus coils Vaporshark put out), and I've been having fun playing with the temperature to bring out different notes in my juice. Even if you aren't interested in a new mod or tank, if you have a Nautilus and you're looking for a good MTL vape, these coils are well worth checking out.
Final thoughts - I think this kit is a winner for anybody who likes a MTL tank or is looking for a tiny carrying-around mod, and would be an excellent bet for new vapers, since it's simple to use but has enough oomph to grow into (it's certainly leagues ahead of the "two off-brand eGo batteries and a CE4" kit I used to quit smoking with. And about half the price).
1 In an effort to stave off the inevitable snarky comment, yes, I'm aware the nickel coils for running in temp control mode have a resistance <1 ohm. Bite me.
submitted by Pardoz to electronic_cigarette

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