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LCI E90 Coding Help?
Good evening all!!
I come to you with great curiosity, and intend to satisfy it without killing the cat, as it were. I'm aware that for legislative reasons here in the UK, vehicles were set to NOT chirp on lock/unlock, and in my particular case the panic button on the fob does not work either. I have obtained a K+DCAN cable, but not taken it anywhere near the car until I had delved into the matter sufficiently to know what I'm doing (somewhat).
So! Let's get into it. I started small today by first coding the digital speed indicator, as per the clear instructions of 'LMB335is' (thank you!) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoAK2d97HjQ. This was successful in the first instance but I'll come back to it later.
I have used INPA to check that my alarm and tilt sensors are functioning with no errors (rudolf's nose is also already working), and then followed part of the instructions in the video above to change the values highlighted by 'e90aL' https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504338.
I had also added '+K302' to the VO, and before all this checked that $302 was indeed there already. As per the guidance I had in front of me, I used the BMW coding tool and NCS Expert to make the relevant changes from the forum post (I do not have iDrive), but when changing jobs and executing it, the cluster would 'refresh' by lights cycling off and on BUT there was no chime, unlike when i had coded the digital speed indicator. Going back in and loading the TRC file with coding tool showed that ~3/4 of the values that needed to be changed in DWAI had changed successfully, while the remainder fell back into nicht_activ. I then noticed that the digital speed indicator had also returned to nicht_aktiv. Checked INPA again and no errors shown for the alarms, and triggering the sensors inside still sets it off. No chirps and no panic alarm via fob either.
What I'm trying to figure out is what the hell I'm missing!? What is making it revert half of the changed values? Is it telling me to f* off? I wouldn't imagine taking the keyfob out and putting it back in, then starting the engine is part of the process (like in the video)?. I took her out for a spin and noticed that in all this, i'm now getting shift recommendations on my dash (I have a MT lol; this was after I changed BC_digital_V and BC_digital_ korrektur to 'aktiv' - there was a chime when I executed this job!).
I would greatly appreciate some help with this, as it's a puzzle I'm now finding myself needing to solve.
It is also worth noting that I suspect the previous owner had tinkered with the car, since it has roll windows up/down with fob but not the comfort pack. The values in the DWAS module were also already as shown in the e90post guidance.
Thanks in advance!!
So a day has passed and I've found what the issue was - I loaded the wrong profile in NCS Expert! As per u/MrSnowden's suggestion, this update will clarify on what I missed, and bring together the community's findings and advice into one post (as best as possible). After some digging I found a post by vickumar (thank you!) (https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1800496-Dummies-Guide-to-Basic-coding-with-NCS-Expert) and a comment by LMB335is (legend) (https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1557062) explaining how these profiles work, and the way in which they allow you to interact with the vehicle's modules. One user had incorrectly said that the two default options ('Factory Coding'/'Expert Mode' and 'Manipulation') are the same and can be used interchangeably. This is NOT the case. As explained by LMB335is, 'Factory Coding' aka 'Expert Mode' will code your module based on the VO, and so if the parameters you change don't line up with what it deduces from the VO, they will revert to default factory settings (the name made sense after this ahaha). I would imagine this incredibly useful for undoing any mistakes.
Manipulation, on the other hand, will code the module as you desire, so it is important to make sure you're only tinkering with parameters you understand! I had both the spreadsheet of code translations and Google Translate handy to double check things. The custom profiles reflect the needs of those who created them, but in order to code with them, there is a checkbox that needs to be ticked. This seems to be one of the main things that sets these profiles apart.
Taking all of the sources I've read through and linked along with my own experience today, you will find below the process I've used to code the chirp on lock/unlock. Note that I was unable to set the panic alarm off via the fob, but I also had not waited 30s for the alarm to arm. I will test that tomorrow!
Have your K+DCAN cable handy, and ensure your laptop is fully charged. Not sure if this is necessary, but for my own peace of mind I deactivated my antivirus and firewall, and air gapped it (WiFi off). Saved my battery and was a way of making sure the laptop is only communicating with the car. For quick googling, etc I used my phone. I won't post the SP-DATEN and Coding tools package download links as I cannot personally guarantee they are 100% safe. They were quite easy to find though!
Foreword: This is purely anectodal, I'm not a pro. Continue at your own risk and have a read through it all before you sit down to do it. You also must have the alarm installed for the chirps! Run your VIN through a decoder online and check the options list. Have a read through Bluebee's comprehensive guide for coding too: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=561237
- Ensure your K+DCAN cable is set to DCAN (if there are 4 positions, 1 should be K (left side, OBD connector pointing away from you), and 2, 3, 4 should be DCAN. Check that your port is set to COM1 with a latency of 1 via device manager.* *The cable will have installed its own drivers upon it's initial connection.
- Ensure you have BMW coding tools installed, and that the latest SP-DATEN files and default folders are good to go via Coding Tool (instructions: http://obd365.eklablog.com/update-sp-daten-files-with-bmw-coding-tool-2-50-a154939426). For this process the applications I needed used were INPA, BMW Coding Tool and NCS Expert. My SP-DATEN 'E89' folder was created in 2016. Not sure which version no. that corresponds to.
- (You can skip this and step 4 if you're 100% sure the connection has been established correctly) Insert the fob and connect your K+DCAN cable to the vehicle's OBDII port. If your cable has an LED, it will stay on for a little bit but may turn off. It is not an indication of whether it's working so don't worry. Connect the cable to your laptop, and launch INPA. At the top there will be two indicators - 'Cable detected', and 'Ignition'. The circles next to both should be black (like https://i.ytimg.com/vi/JRhbodlOOMY/maxresdefault.jpg), but in my case 'Cable detected' was half black and the other half flickering between black and a colon; no issues for me.
- Select F3 ('E90'), and then you can select any module you wish - In this case let's go for the alarm! Select 'Body' > 'DWA Sirens and Tilt Sensor'. You may see prompts regarding version/language discrepencies but just dismiss them. If it gives an error such as 'IFH-0009: No response from control unit', Click back and try selecting a different part of the car, then coming back to this one. If the problem persists, try closing INPA, reconnecting the cable and going from there - consider this list of potential reasons (http://blog.obdexpress.co.uk/2015/12/02/solved-inpa-error-ifh-0009-no-response-from-control-unit/). If it does load, though, you can then use 'Info' (F1), 'Ident' (F2), 'Error' (F4) and 'Status' (F5) to check that information is getting through and that the particular part(s) are functioning correctly. Back is 'End' (F10). Once you are happy, close INPA as you would a normal application. You will be prompted to confirm quitting.
** If you wish to add '+K302' to VO (http://blog.obdii365.com/2016/08/31/change-bmw-vo-vehicle-order-by-ncs-expert/)
- Launch BMW Coding Tool, then NCS Expert. If you're not feeling confident have LMB355is' video up and ready for general guidance (he codes the KOMBI, but principle is more or less the same) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoAK2d97HjQ). the Coding Tool will have a list of steps shown to follow too, if you ever forget.
- On NCS Expert, Click 'File' > 'Load profile' > 'Manipulation' > 'OK'.
- Click F1 > F3 > 'E89' > 'OK' > 'CAS' > 'OK'. The chassis number, VO and VIN will then populate the main window. Click F6 to then go back.
- Click F4 ('Process ECU') > 'DWAI' > 'OK' > F4 (will have changed to 'Read ECU'). Nattodat trace will pop up as a notepad document; just close it.
- Bring up the BMW Coding Tool window, click 'Load TRC-file', and all options for that module will then appear in the box below. You can click the search button to find specific things. Change the values for DWAI as noted above by E90aL (https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504338). In my case all I needed to code was the DWAI module.
- Select a parameter you would like to change. Nicht_aktiv = not active, and aktiv = active. When clicking to change a parameter you can tick the 'quick change' box and it will change it for you, then click 'OK'. Changes you make will be highlighted in bold.
- Once you're happy with all the changes you've made, click 'Save MAN-file'. Two prompts will show in succession asking you to backup the TRC and MAN files respectively. Click 'Yes' > 'Save' for both.
- Bring NCS Expert to the foreground again, and click F2 ('Change job'). Click 'SG_CODIEREN' > 'OK'. Note how on the main window, 'JOBNAME:' changes from 'CODIERDATEN_LESEN' ('read coding data') to SG_CODIEREN ('code').
- Click F3 ('Execute job'). Above 'JOBNAME:' you will see 'coding aktiv'. When the process is complete, that will change to 'coding ended'. In my case there was still no chime, but the process was complete. The chime may or may not be limited to making changes to the KOMBI module.
- For good measure, eject the fob and put it back in. You can now close the NCS Expert and BMW Coding Tool windows. When closing the Coding Tool window, a prompt will appear asking if you wish to empty your MAN-file. Click 'Yes'. Disconnect the cable from the laptop and car.
- And that should be it! Test it out, see if it works.
A Fat Guide to Cybersecurity
As a member of fatFIRE, you are a particularly juicy target for attackers, so this guide is written with the intent of preventing attacks from strangers and people you know. Obviously, more skilled attackers who are targeting you specifically will get you eventually, so we won’t cover that.
Good cybersecurity protection consists of prevention, so you don’t get owned, and monitoring, so you know when you’re owned and can take action to remediate the damage. A common method for attacks is that a website’s database gets compromised and your information is stolen, which could be passwords or credit card info. This information is then used to harm you. You can check haveibeenpwned.com to see if your email is known to be compromised. You should move forward with the assumption that your information is out there, as that mindset will help you the most.
One of the reasons email/password credentials are so valuable to attackers is that most people reuse the same passwords for everything. Ideally, getting my Reddit email/password combo would only allow someone to post a bad Fat Guide to fatFIRE, which would be a travesty but not disastrous. However, many people reuse passwords so stealing my reddit credentials would permit them to log into my bank account, email, etc.
You should be using a unique, strong password for each site, but since that’s hard to remember, you should use a password manager like Lastpass. Using a password manager guarantees a unique, strong password for each site. The only passwords you should keep outside of Lastpass are your lastpass password, your email(s) password, and your computer password. You may ask what happens if Lastpass or other password managers are hacked. I won’t get into the technical details, but your information is generally safe even after breaches because the company doesn’t’ hold the encryption key to your data, you do (as your password). Security experts agree that using a password manager, even one with potential vulnerabilities, is generally safer than not using one. This is a bit of an oversimplification, but it's true. Use a password manager.
2 Factor Authentication
Obviously, two factor authentication improves your situation by preventing someone from compromising your account if they only get your username/password. However, traditional 2FA methods like email or text can be phished. There are many scams where someone calls you, pretending to be your bank, and then tells you to read them the number texted to you to “authenticate yourself.” Meanwhile, they login or reset your password with the code and clean you out. Another method, “SIM swapping,” which was recently used to steal Jack Dorsey’s (twitter CEO’s) twitter account, is where the hacker convinces your phone provider to switch your number to the attacker’s SIM card in their phone. You can’t defend against this, so phone 2FA is never perfectly safe.
The solution? Security keys, such as Yubico’s Yubikeys or Google’s Titan keys. These are physical devices that provide a code, and can be used for 2FA on Google, Facebook, Vanguard, Reddit, Lastpass, and many more. Unfortunately, few commercial banks support security keys including Ally (please message their customer support about this, they need to support it). Security keys cannot be compromised outside of stealing the key as they require you to have physical possession of the device. Of course, you need two of them in case you lose one or it breaks, or else you’ll get locked out of your accounts. With premium Lastpass, you can use security keys to protect your Lastpass passwords as well. This is a great tactic.
Getting “access to root” means you have access to everything. In this case, “root” is your email because you are generally able to reset your password on other accounts from your email (I suppose your phone or pc may be as well, more on that below). My recommendation in this case is to use Gmail with the advanced protection program (requires security keys). This will make it virtually impossible for anyone to access your account but you. However, if you lose both your keys you will have to wait a few days for Google to confirm who you are so you can get back in. One of the other advantages to using security keys is that “root” doesn’t really exist anymore on any account using them, as even if an attacker breaks into your email they can’t bypass security key 2FA for other accounts.
My other recommendation is to use two emails, one which you use publicly and the other privately. Use the public one for whatever: social media accounts, receiving forwarded articles from your crazy grandpa, applying to jobs, etc. The private one should be used only for your financial accounts, such as banks, brokerages, and credit cards. You can also use this email for Lastpass. You should never provide this email to anyone, ever. This will make it very hard for someone, even someone who knows you, to guess what email you use for your finances. Ideally, you’d be using a separate computer, like a $200 chromebook, as the only computephone from which you access this email or financial accounts, but that’s pretty paranoid and not necessary. Both of these Gmail accounts should use unique, strong passwords you have memorized, and not be stored in a password manager, just in case.
Protecting Other Accounts
Protecting all other accounts is straightforward: use your password manager for a password and use 2FA (preferably with a security key) wherever possible. You never know which account will give an attacker the info they need to own you, which could be your address, phone number, etc. Imagine if your spouse or mom got a Facebook message from “you” saying you forgot your SSN and need it right away. Many accounts, particularly financial accounts, may contain tax forms with your social security number. Most people don’t realize their college account, which may have financial aid tax forms, may have this info. Protecting your SSN is really, really, hard, which leads us to…
Frankly, protecting your SSN today is basically impossible. If you used credit before the Equifax breach, your info is probably in the wild and could be used today or 50 years from now. If you have no immediate plans to use your credit, freeze it with every major bureau. Also, set up credit monitoring so you know if anyone opens an account in your name. Unfortunately, there is not much you can do to prevent your SSN being compromised. Your SSN is everywhere, from banks, to colleges, to your employer, to your doctors/accountants/lawyers office. It is a literal disaster that will hopefully be corrected, but probably won’t.
Credit cards are equally challenging to protect (if not more so). You should use credit cards and not debit cards wherever possible, as it is unlikely you will successfully dispute debit card transactions. It is common for credit card info to be stolen via database hacks (do you really trust every vendor you use your card at?). Apps like Apple/Google Pay are actually even better as a result, as they use a one-time code for the transaction that cannot be used afterwards, so it doesn’t matter if they are stolen. Here, I will also note that while RFID-readers reading your credit card while you walk by on the sidewalk is technically possible, there has never been a documented case of it occurring and the RFID-blocking wallet is totally unnecessary as a result.
A critical component is, again, monitoring. You can typically configure text alerts for every credit card transaction. I receive a text every time any of my cards are used. This helps identify fraudulent transactions in real-time.
Lastly, it is often possible with banks to set up a challenge/response for phone calls. They might have to provide you a code to authenticate themselves as your bank, or they may ask you a security question/ask for a code to authenticate you. This is very helpful at stopping social engineers from stealing your info, either by pretending to be your bank calling you or pretending to be you calling your bank. Keep in mind, though, that many “security questions” are awful and can be found on your facebook. So pick a weird one, like “Who was your least favorite teacher in high school?”
General Device Security
Device security is really fraught and challenging. From a phone perspective, you should of course use some sort of authentication (such as fingerprint, passcode, pattern), on your phone and also on each of your financial apps, so stealing your unlocked phone doesn’t grant automatic access to financial accounts. Aim to only install apps from trusted sources, as multiple apps that have 10-100 million+ downloads have been demonstrated malicious.
PCs are a little more challenging. Chromebooks are the safest PCs from a security perspective. If you ask me what the best antivirus is, it’s a chromebook. Seriously, if you’re going to get a laptop for anything but gaming or video editing, get a chromebook. Despite what many laymen say, Macs aren’t technically more secure than Windows, but attackers are less likely to target them because they are less common. As you do sketchier things on the internet, you are more likely to get owned. For example, regular browsing on trusted sites is typically safe. Going on adult or illegal streaming websites may have malicious pop-ups or ads. Torrenting is more dangerous, and the dark web can be extremely thorny. As a result, I strongly recommend that if you want to engage in unsafe behavior (i.e. torrenting) on the internet, at least keep a separate $200 Chromebook only for all your finances, and don’t access those accounts from any other device. No reason to lose tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars because you didn’t want to spend $20 on a video game.
As far as anti-virus goes (if you have to use something other than a Chromebook), Bitdefender is a pretty good bet, but there’s a lot of good software out there. Personally, I’d be wary of anything Russian or Chinese either as security software (Kaspersky) or as a device (Huawei). Chinese manufacturers are known to insert backdoors into their devices. In one particularly ironic instance, a chinese manufacturer perfectly copied an American device down to the typos in the manual, but their version had twice as many security vulnerabilities. This is one of the reasons letting Chinese manufacturers build 5G infrastructure in Europe is so worrisome.
In a similar vein, public wifi is questionable. There are a lot of opportunities for attackers associated with public wifi networks. HTTPS stops many of these, but tools like sslstrip highlight some vulnerabilities. A VPN may be helpful, but most free VPNs are awful, so do as you will.
Someone before asked for a flowchart or something of the sort, so here is a concrete action plan:
- Get at least two security keys (i.e. Yubico)
- Set up a public and private gmail account. Your private email should not be linked in ANY way to your public email and should be given to no one.
- Turn on advanced protection on both gmail accounts and link to security keys
- Get a password manager like Lastpass. If you get Lastpass premium (recommended), add your security keys for authentication.
- Generate new passwords using your password manager for all accounts but your emails, pc password, and your password manager itself.
- Associate any financial accounts, such as credit cards, banks, brokerages with your private email
- Turn on 2FA (with the security keys wherever possible) on all accounts, as well as login alerts.
- Turn on text/email alerts for any credit card charges or bank transactions, as well as credit changes.
- Make sure your phone is locked by some authorization measure, as well as your financial apps individually. Preferably a password. Added bonus: cops can’t get a password but can force your fingerprint or face id, a current dispute in the courts.
- Optionally freeze your credit.
- Optionally get a cheap chromebook as the only computer on which you do financial transactions.
- Optionally encrypt your phone and hard drives.